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| Planting Tips |
Dig a shallow, broad planting hole.
Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point
should be partially visible after the tree has been planted (see diagram). If the trunk flare is not partially
visible, you may have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball. Find it so you can determine
how deep the hole needs to be for proper planting.
Place the tree at the proper height. Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see that the hole
has been dug to the proper depth-and no more. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will
develop in the top 12" of soil. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing
because of a lack of oxygen. It is better to plant the tree a little high, 2" — 3" above the base of the trunk
flare, than to plant it at or below the original growing level. This planting level will allow for some
settling (see diagram). To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always lift the tree by the root
ball and never by the trunk.
Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from
several directions to confirm that the tree is straight. Once you begin backfilling, it is difficult to
reposition the tree.
Fill the hole gently but firmly. Fill the hole about 1/3 full and gently but firmly pack the soil
around the base of the root ball. Then, if the tree is balled and burlap, cut and remove the string and
wire from around the trunk and top third of the root ball (see diagram). Be careful not to damage the
trunk or roots in the process.
Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause
roots to dry out. To avoid this problem, add the soil a few inches at a time and settle with water.
Continue this process until the hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted. It is not recommended to
apply fertilizer at the time of planting.
Stake the tree, if necessary. If the tree is grown and dug properly at the nursery, staking for
support will not be necessary in most home landscape situations. Studies show that trees establish
faster and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting.
However, protective staking may be required where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy
conditions are concerns. If staking is necessary for support, two stakes used in conjunction with a wide,
flexible tie material will hold the tree upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the trunk (see
diagram). Remove staking and ties after the first year of growth.
Trees do best when not tied to a stake, just make sure that the hole has been filled in
properly.
Backfill all planting holes with the soil that's been dug out of the hole. Backfill, breaking
up all soil particles to the size of golf balls or smaller. Water in well and as the soil-filled hole fills up with
water, take a shovel and work the back filled soil up and down to settle it in place. This will cause the
soil clump to become securely locked into its new home.
Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch acts as a blanket to hold moisture, moderate soil temperature
extremes (both hot and cold), and reduces competition from grass and weeds. Some good mulch
choices are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or wood chips. A 2" layer is ideal. More
than 2" may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels. When placing mulch do not pile it up
against the trunk. Doing so may cause decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. A mulch-free area,
1" — 2" wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent decay.
Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not soaked; over-watering causes leaves to turn
yellow or fall off. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot
weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until mid-fall,
tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent watering.
Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point
should be partially visible after the tree has been planted (see diagram). If the trunk flare is not partially
visible, you may have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball. Find it so you can determine
how deep the hole needs to be for proper planting.
Place the tree at the proper height. Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see that the hole
has been dug to the proper depth-and no more. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will
develop in the top 12" of soil. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing
because of a lack of oxygen. It is better to plant the tree a little high, 2" — 3" above the base of the trunk
flare, than to plant it at or below the original growing level. This planting level will allow for some
settling (see diagram). To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always lift the tree by the root
ball and never by the trunk.
Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from
several directions to confirm that the tree is straight. Once you begin backfilling, it is difficult to
reposition the tree.
Fill the hole gently but firmly. Fill the hole about 1/3 full and gently but firmly pack the soil
around the base of the root ball. Then, if the tree is balled and burlap, cut and remove the string and
wire from around the trunk and top third of the root ball (see diagram). Be careful not to damage the
trunk or roots in the process.
Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause
roots to dry out. To avoid this problem, add the soil a few inches at a time and settle with water.
Continue this process until the hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted. It is not recommended to
apply fertilizer at the time of planting.
Stake the tree, if necessary. If the tree is grown and dug properly at the nursery, staking for
support will not be necessary in most home landscape situations. Studies show that trees establish
faster and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting.
However, protective staking may be required where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy
conditions are concerns. If staking is necessary for support, two stakes used in conjunction with a wide,
flexible tie material will hold the tree upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the trunk (see
diagram). Remove staking and ties after the first year of growth.
Trees do best when not tied to a stake, just make sure that the hole has been filled in
properly.
Backfill all planting holes with the soil that's been dug out of the hole. Backfill, breaking
up all soil particles to the size of golf balls or smaller. Water in well and as the soil-filled hole fills up with
water, take a shovel and work the back filled soil up and down to settle it in place. This will cause the
soil clump to become securely locked into its new home.
Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch acts as a blanket to hold moisture, moderate soil temperature
extremes (both hot and cold), and reduces competition from grass and weeds. Some good mulch
choices are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or wood chips. A 2" layer is ideal. More
than 2" may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels. When placing mulch do not pile it up
against the trunk. Doing so may cause decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. A mulch-free area,
1" — 2" wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent decay.
Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not soaked; over-watering causes leaves to turn
yellow or fall off. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot
weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until mid-fall,
tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent watering.
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