Container-grown plants have become the most popular method of growing plants for sale by the nursery industry. In
theory, container-grown plants can be transplanted year round, however, extra attention to watering must be made when
transplanting in late spring or summer. Late fall and early spring are considered ideal planting times because roots will
have more time to grow into the surrounding soil before the stress due to new foliage growth and high temperatures
occurs.
The planting depth should be such that the plant is exactly the
same depth after transplanting as it was in the container (Figure 1).
Ideally, the hole should not be dug any deeper than the root ball.
The loosened soil below the root ball can settle resulting in the
plant being planted too deep. If you dig too deep, firm the bottom
of the hole to reduce settling. Since most new roots will grow
horizontally from the side of the root ball, soil firmed at the bottom
of the hole will not substantially affect root growth. In most
compacted urban soils, root growth from the bottom of the root ball
will be limited by inadequate aeration and possibly excessive
moisture. In some cases the roots in the lower portion of the root
ball die after transplanting. Efforts to improve the soil should be
directed near the soil surface by preparing the entire bed or
digging wide individual holes.
Planting Tips
Widening the planting hole is an ideal way to enhance plant growth. A planting hole that is 2 to 3 times the width of the
root ball with the sides of the hole sloping towards the bottom is ideal in most situations. When digging in heavy soil the
sides can become slick especially if the soil is somewhat wet. Slick sides can act as a physical barrier to root growth
and moisture movement. Use a shovel to make the sides of the hole rough and irregular.
Always water plants thoroughly before transplanting. Remove the
plant from the container by turning the plant upside down and giving
the top edge of the container a sharp rap. Catch the root ball in your
hands as it slips from the container. If plants have become
overgrown in the container and the root mass is growing in a tight,
compact circle the roots should be loosened before planting. If the
roots are only slightly encircled you can loosen and spread them
out by hand. Many gardeners cut the outer roots with a sharp knife
by making vertical cuts approximately 2 inches into the root ball on
two to four sides of the root ball (Figure 2) Some gardeners split the
lower half of the root ball and spread the roots horizontally (Figure
3). This practice raises the lower roots closer to the soil surface.
Plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, and daphne that are
especially prove to developing root rot in poorly drained sites could
benefit from this butterflying practice.After the roots have been
loosened or cut, carefully place the plant in the hole. Always pick
the plant up by the root ball never by the trunk or stem (can cause
damage to fine root hairs).
Soil that was removed from the hole should
be used to refill the hole. Traditionally, the
recommendation was to incorporate organic
matter into the backfill (soil used to fill a
planting hole). Some gardeners took the
practice further and completely replaced the
removed soil with purchased topsoil.
Research has shown neither practice helps
plants grow and in some cases can be
detrimental. When water enters soil with one
type of texture and later comes in contact
with soil that has a very different texture
water movement (drainage) is impeded.
a wide hole is to improve soil aeration and to reduce compaction.a wide hole is to improve soil aeration and to reduce
compaction.
Lime should be mixed with the backfill, if needed, based on a soil test. Fertilizer should not be added at planting since it
can burn the roots. An exception would be the application of phosphorus which moves very slowly, or not at all, in the soil
and plays a key role in root formation. It will not burn the roots. Liquid fertilizers are some times applied after planting, but
their benefit has not been proven.
more than 1/2 to 1 inch of fine soil. Ideally it should be level with the soil surface. Otherwise, water can be diverted
After a tree or shrub has been planted, construct a ring of soil 2 to 3 inches high to form a water basin at the outside edge
of the hole (plants in beds probably will not require a water basin). This permits water to go into the root zone rather than
running off the surface. Water the plant to eliminate air pockets around roots. The water basin does not need to be a
permanent fixture and can be removed after the plants become established. Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch over the
planting hole. The mulch will help maintain moisture and reduce fluctuations in soil temperature. The mulched area should
be expanded as the plant grows.
Planting in poorly drained sites.
When planting in a poorly drained or severely compacted
sites, set the plant so the root ball is partially above the
soil level (Figure 4). Dig the hole only two-thirds the depth
of the root ball and mound soil around the root ball to
create a gentle slope. The mound should be five times
wider than the root ball. A disadvantage with this method
of planting is that the top of the root ball may dry out
quickly during dry weather.

Loosening the soil beyond the planting hole can
dramatically increase the rate of root growth and
penetration into the surrounding soil. Loosen (by tilling or
aerating) the soil for an additional 10 to 15 feet in diameter
beyond the planting hole.
12 "
18 to 24 "
Thuja Gardens
Planting Tips
Questions?Call Customer Service
(828)273-5771