Pruning Crape Myrtles
We often use Crapemyrtles in the landscape because they
bloom all summer long. We also value them for their peeling
bark, fall color and the grace of their natural form. They are as
tough as they are beautiful.
The practice of chopping off the tops of Crapemyrtles has
become very commonplace. Many people believe that it is
required to promote flowering; some prune because the plant is
too large for the space provided; others see their neighbors
doing it and feel the need to follow suit. There are some
instances in which heavy pruning is necessary, but light pruning
is usually all that is needed. The type and amount of pruning
depends on the desired shape and size of the plant.
The Crapemyrtle can be a low-maintenance plant, and the best
way to ensure this is to choose the cultivar that best suits your
landscape needs before planting. There are many new cultivars
in different sizes and colors. The dwarf (3 to 6 feet) and
semi-dwarf (7 to 15 feet) selections now available make it easy
to choose the right size plant for a certain space. If careful
consideration is given to the projected size of the mature plant, a
selection can be found that will not outgrow its boundaries and
can be allowed to display its graceful beauty with minimal
pruning.
Crapemyrtles do not require heavy pruning to promote bloom.
Flowers are produced on new growth. It will produce flowers
without any pruning, although it may bloom more profusely if at
least lightly pruned. Pruning in late winter or early spring will
stimulate vigorous new growth in the spring. Encourage a
second bloom in summer by pruning flowers immediately after
they fade.
This plant prefers hot, sunny climates and in South Carolina
many varieties will grow to tree-size proportions. It is important
that tree types are sited where they have a large area to spread.
When given an ideal location these tree types should be allowed
to develop their natural style without whacking off their tops.
To develop a tree shape, remove all limbs growing from ground
level except the three to five strongest limbs. As the tree
matures, remove lower, lateral branches ("limbing up") one-third
to halfway up the height of the plant. Remove branches that are
crossing or rubbing against each other and shoots growing into
the center of the canopy. Make your cuts to a side branch or
close to the trunk at the branch collar. Head back (heading back
is removing a part of a branch right above a leaf or a visible bud)
wayward and unbranched limbs.
As the tree grows taller, remove lower branches as needed.
Remove any future growth from the ground to retain the
desirable trunk structure. This basal sprouting may occur
whether the tree is being pruned or not. Pull these out when
succulent instead of pruning them.
You may feel the need to improve the appearance by removing
the seed heads in late winter or early spring before growth
begins. This is recommended only if they are within reach. Once
this becomes a tall, mature plant, allow nature to take its course
- the seedheads will drop, the plant will bloom, and the natural
grace of the plant will be retained.
We often use Crapemyrtles in the landscape because they
bloom all summer long. We also value them for their peeling
bark, fall color and the grace of their natural form. They are as
tough as they are beautiful.
The practice of chopping off the tops of Crapemyrtles has
become very commonplace. Many people believe that it is
required to promote flowering; some prune because the plant is
too large for the space provided; others see their neighbors
doing it and feel the need to follow suit. There are some
instances in which heavy pruning is necessary, but light pruning
is usually all that is needed. The type and amount of pruning
depends on the desired shape and size of the plant.
The Crapemyrtle can be a low-maintenance plant, and the best
way to ensure this is to choose the cultivar that best suits your
landscape needs before planting. There are many new cultivars
in different sizes and colors. The dwarf (3 to 6 feet) and
semi-dwarf (7 to 15 feet) selections now available make it easy
to choose the right size plant for a certain space. If careful
consideration is given to the projected size of the mature plant, a
selection can be found that will not outgrow its boundaries and
can be allowed to display its graceful beauty with minimal
pruning.
Crapemyrtles do not require heavy pruning to promote bloom.
Flowers are produced on new growth. It will produce flowers
without any pruning, although it may bloom more profusely if at
least lightly pruned. Pruning in late winter or early spring will
stimulate vigorous new growth in the spring. Encourage a
second bloom in summer by pruning flowers immediately after
they fade.
This plant prefers hot, sunny climates and in South Carolina
many varieties will grow to tree-size proportions. It is important
that tree types are sited where they have a large area to spread.
When given an ideal location these tree types should be allowed
to develop their natural style without whacking off their tops.
To develop a tree shape, remove all limbs growing from ground
level except the three to five strongest limbs. As the tree
matures, remove lower, lateral branches ("limbing up") one-third
to halfway up the height of the plant. Remove branches that are
crossing or rubbing against each other and shoots growing into
the center of the canopy. Make your cuts to a side branch or
close to the trunk at the branch collar. Head back (heading back
is removing a part of a branch right above a leaf or a visible bud)
wayward and unbranched limbs.
As the tree grows taller, remove lower branches as needed.
Remove any future growth from the ground to retain the
desirable trunk structure. This basal sprouting may occur
whether the tree is being pruned or not. Pull these out when
succulent instead of pruning them.
You may feel the need to improve the appearance by removing
the seed heads in late winter or early spring before growth
begins. This is recommended only if they are within reach. Once
this becomes a tall, mature plant, allow nature to take its course
- the seedheads will drop, the plant will bloom, and the natural
grace of the plant will be retained.
| Severe pruning is a harmful practice that destroys the grace and beauty of the tree. It also stresses the tree, making it more susceptible to diseases. |
| A common misconception is that a tree will flower better if severely pruned. This photo shows the flowering of a pruned (left) versus an unpruned tree. |
| When thinning out branches, remove outside the branch collar which is a swollen area where the branch joins the trunk. |
| When removing seedheads or heading back a branch, make the cut just above a lateral bud. |
| This Crapemyrtle is in need of some pruning. There are too many trunks, and the canopy needs to be thinned. |
| The same tree after pruning: The canopy has been opened up to allow more sunlight, and the lower limbs and suckers have been removed to develop the tunk structure. |